A. Materials and tools (New or previously sterilized):
1) Firm working table surface
2) Newspaper
3) Single edge razor blades
4) Disposable sterile gloves
5) Optional: Soft mallet
6) Optional: Serrated knife or other cutting tool that can be sterilized and reused
7) Wooden skewers
8) Clean plastic pots, labels and #2 pencil or permanent fine marker pen
9) Bark, coconut husk or coir mix (see samples under C below)
10) Plastic tamping tool (12" capped 1⁄2" PVC pipe)
11) Optional: soft music of choice and a perfect temperature day without bugs.
B. Procedure:
1) Visually inspect or test plant for virus. If clean continue. If not, discard and move on to a virus free plant.
2) Spread fresh newspaper on work surface. Keep plant on newspaper when repotting.
3) Remove plant from container. Methods include holding plant on its side and pressing to loosen from pot or using soft mallet.
4) If the plant is to be divided, continue. If plant is only to be potted up, skip to Step #6 or #7.
5) Sever 1/3 to 1/2 of the root ball with a sterile knife, razor blade, or other sterile cutting tool.
a. Determine a natural point to split with at least 3-5 green bulbs with leaves on each division. Use cutting tool if manual pressure is insufficient.
b. Leave only one BB (bulbs without leaves) per division.
c. Use wooden skewer to carefully pick out old mix from the roots.
d. Remove all soft and rotten roots and all roots from any BB left on division.
e. Re-trim any long roots so that no root touches the bottom of the new pot into which the division is to go.
f. Wash roots with water if desired to remove remaining mix.
g. Remove dead leaves. Divide leaf at the vein and pull each half up and to the side to avoid breaking new growths or spikes. Note: scale, mealy bug, and other pests love to hide under the bases of the dead leaves.
h. Choose appropriate sized pot. With newest growth centered in pot, 2" from edge of plant to edge of pot is preferred. If the roots are in bad shape, under-pot (i.e., choose the size of the pot by the quality of the roots, not the top of the plant).
i. Place small amount of mix in bottom of pot and place cleaned division in pot so that the top of the root mass, where the majority of growths begin, is about 2" below the rim of the pot. “Screw” plant into pot if necessary to minimalize breakage of any roots.
j. Fill mix around roots, shaking, tapping and "bouncing" pot on the table until mix is settled about two inches below rim of pot.
k. When using fir bark, Orchiata or Coco Chips:
1. Gently work mix around roots. Add mix as necessary so that final level is about 1"
below rim of pot. Tamp firmly avoiding contact with any roots. Do not shake or tap
pot after tamping has begun.
6) If the plant is only to be potted up and is in bark:
a. Use skewer to remove any old bark mix.
b. Remove all but one BB.
c. Remove all soft and rotten roots and all roots from any BB left on the plant.
d. Trim any long roots so that no root touches the bottom of the new pot into which the
plant is to go.
e. Wash roots with water if desired to remove remaining mix.
f. Remove dead leaves.
g. Place small amount of mix in bottom of pot and place cleaned division in pot so that
the top of the root mass, where the majority of growths begin, is about 2" below the
edge of the pot.
h. Fill mix around roots, shaking, tapping and "bouncing" pot on the table until mix is
settled about two inches below rim of pot.
i. If using bark:
1. Tamp mix around edge of pot until firmly packed. Add mix as necessary so that final
level is about 1" below rim of pot. The plant should be able to be gently picked up
by the leaves and not come out of the pot.
7) If the plant is in coconut chips and returning to coconut chips:
a. Minimally remove mix and gently loosen outer roots from root ball.
b. Select larger pot and follow steps #5-j and #5-k above.
8) Look carefully at the finished plant sitting on the potting table. Trim with a razor blade on a diagonal cut, any leaves that are damaged at the tips or at the point where they drag on the table. Straighten any leaves that are upside down or skewed.
9) If using a slow release granular fertilizer, apply at this time.
10) Place the finished plant in a shady location away from direct sun for several weeks. Resume regular watering and fertilizing in about a week.
C. Potting mixes:
Many different types of orchid mixes have been used over the years. As newer methods are discovered and new materials found to perform better than the old ones did, new "recipes" arise.
Two basic mixes are given here, one for bark or Orchiata and one for coconut chips. Adjustments for climate and water conditions are encouraged.
1) Bark mix: Orchiata does not need to be soaked but fir bark should be soaked overnight in water sufficient enough to allow most of the bark to float but allow decomposing bark (up to 50%) to sink. (Orchiata needs only be moistened.) A plastic garbage container works well. Skim off the floating bark and drain on a plastic sheet or in a "holey" wheelbarrow or garbage can before mixing with other ingredients. Discard the bark that has gone to the bottom of the container or use as mulch around other plants or on pathways.
a. 40% medium bark (1/4" to 1/2") soaked and drained.
b. 40% fine bark (1/8" to 1/4") soaked and drained.
c. 15% to 20% perlite, in the form of #3 or #4 Sponge Rok.
d. 5% optional for fir bark but not Orchiata - washed sand, pea gravel, charcoal and
additives of choice.
2) Coconut mix (CHC): Coconut chips need to be thoroughly washed and leached of salt. Again, using a garbage can or plastic "mortar pan", soak material overnight until totally saturated. Place in large pots and run water through up to 5 times. The ratio of fine chips to medium chips is variable with the climate and area where the growers live. Fine chips hold water for a longer time. The use of Sponge Rok or Perlite and sand helps the water to permeate the mix more easily. The following shows a basic mix but proportions are easily changed.
a. 80% coconut chips, small (1/8" – 1/4") and medium (1/4" to 1/2") chips.. The more fine chips, the more water the mix will retain.
b. 20% #3 or #4 Sponge Rok or Agricultural Perlite.
Optional: c. Small amount of washed river sand but no more than 1%.
d. "Special Recipe" additions of choice as oyster shell, charcoal, etc.
ADDITIONAL NOTES:
1) Do not water a week before you re-pot as it is easier to remove the old mix when it is on the dry side.
2) If hosing off the roots to clean them before repotting, direct a firm stream with your finger over the hose end, strong enough to dislodge scale and other pests but not so strong as to remove new growths.
3) Proper positioning in the pot and proper pressure in tamping or pressing of the mix around the division to keep it from wobbling and damaging the roots are important to the quick reestablishment of the new plant.
4) If the Cymbidiums are being repotted in hotter, more humid climates, it might be necessary to make one or more of the following changes:
a. Skip using a water rinse.
b. Allow the cut roots to dry for a period of twenty-four hours.
c. Apply a fungicide or bactericide to the cut ends to preclude a rot problem.
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